Started out thinking we might get to Coober Pedy, but once again the wind was against us. Almost as soon as we headed off it was hard work and before long it was also hot. It seemed to take forever to get to the rest stop 40 or so kms down the road. Whilst designated as a major rest stop it wasn't popular with the vanners. However, once again the water in the tank was fresh and tasted good. Vero was hungry so we cooked some rice and two minute noodles. As we sat resting and waiting for the noodles to cook several Ulysses club bikes pulled up and a guy came over for a chat. He was from Adelaide and had been involved in organising a ride along the Mawson trail. The Ulysses Club had held its 2014 AGM in Alice Springs and for the past few days dozens of bikes, usually in groups of 4 to 6, had been coming south. Our head wind had been their tail wind and fuel consumption was way down.
We headed off into the wind with Coober Pedy looking a long way off. We battled to 90kms or about 50kms to Coober Pedy by about 3:40. By this stage Pierre was struggling. It was a food or fluid bonk or both. Unfortunately our efforts had meant we had entered the mining zone around Coober Pedy. There were two options. Pulling up sometime soonish and camp off the road amongst the mine shafts or ride on into the dark and risk not being seen by something in the hope of reaching Coober Pedy. The incentive of making Coober Pedy was a whole day off to try and recover somewhat from what had been a hard 5 days.
Fortunately the wind subsided so we gunned it for the next 40kms. Not sure what speed was achieved, but it felt like this was about as quick as our machines would travel loaded as they were over that sort of terrain. With about 10kms to go the sun set, but the job was about done. Lights were attached and turned on. It was a cruise from there into Coober Pedy. We arrived about 6:45.
Coober Pedy looks frontier, battered, not cared for. Looks don't matter or at least that is how it seems from what can be seen above ground. If the purpose is achieved that's all that matters. Once it no longer serves a purpose it is discarded. It was a slow procession through the main street populated largely by aboriginals, who appeared to be drunk. Mostly there weren't interested in us, with only a couple stopping their interaction with the others to watch our progress.
There didn't appear to be much accommodation available apart from the backpackers, which we thought could be problematic as they might not have anywhere to store the trikes. A bloke walking towards us into town stopped when we asked him where we might stay. He directed us to the Oasis caravan park.
George, the owner, eventually emerged from somewhere behind the reception area to tell us our chances off getting accommodation for two nights wasn't good. The Ulysses crowd had flocked in. A 2x3m room with a single bed and a bunk was found with Julie's help and there was one cabin left for the second night. By this stage anything suited us.
Having sorted out accommodation the next thing was dinner. George had an arrangement with a couple of places and the underground restaurant was chosen. George, the proprietor of the restaurant, was to pick us up in three quarters of an hour. Enough time it was assessed to shower and dress. We were ready in the allotted time and sat to waited for George, the restaurant proprietor. Three quarters of an hour later he hadn't shown. From George's, the caravan park owner, reaction this wasn't unusual. He locked up and drove us to the restaurant. Nothing flash. Very Coober Pedy. Dinner was had.
...go to day 11 - May 20